Zubiri to Pamplona 23km

Today…rain, sun, wind ..repeat all day!

Sleeping …..or not!

Sleeping is not an easy task for me at the best of times . Like my father, i wake up to almost every noise, grunt, snore , trip to the toilet and rustle in these hostels. But we are really enjoying this type of freedom. It’s not their fault I can’t sleep properly even with earplugs. I lay awake listening to the snorers with envy. My body is tired but my head is buzzing due to the excitement, being out all day in nature and witnessing new sounds, noises and jumping puddles at every turn. I process the day over and over again and feel excitement at what the next day will bring . Then there is my beloved husband Phil who sleeps below me and snores occasionally . I have worked out that if I flick the towel strategically from my top bunk , I can hit his head and make him turn over. Shame I can’t do that to all the snorers but with only 12 tonight it can’t be too bad. There’s 2 snoring sawmills in operation as I write. Please no more ! I’m thinking that we could be lumbered with these snorers for many days now as it’s winter and we are sure to be in many ofnthe same hostels ! My earphones are ready.

Phil thinks there is an elephant on the top bunk as I keep tossing and turning and rocking the bunks which are always creaky so tit for tat . . snoring vs rocking the bunk! Sleeping on a top bunk is like being a youngster again! I have my things around me like a little camp.

The hostel

Jesus y Maria is fully equipped and spacious but luke warm showers mean that no one spends longer than they have to in them ! I have resorted to drying clothes quickly under the hand dryer as the 2 or 3 radiators were already full! The lights go out rather arbitrarily at 11 here but this is 1 hour longer than summer time. Stinke and I are giggling at the snorers and Phil wants me to hit them with the towel like I do to him.

There are 12 of us in this hostel and we greeted the Koreans with a hug whom we have followed since st Jean. This kind of relationship with other pilgrims is quite a new experience where you share accommodation, domestic business , chat with on a daily basis and are share exactly the same goal. Koreans don’t usually go about hugging strangers either . It’s great to share international love ! We may have another pilgrim tomorrow to add to our group of 4 . Kat from Germany. She has cancerous tumours and wants to do the pilgrimage whilst she still can . We will give her lots of love and positive energy tomorrow and I’ll offer some reiki and massage. Miracles happen on the camino. You never know . …

Spanish man’s offer

Angry Spanish man who only speaks from the first hostel is not so angry now although still agitated . He kept offering us chocolate and said “gracias” at every opportunity when we made broken Spanish conversation with him. He moves like a rocket at 5am each morning and tells me he gets lost because he can’t always see the yellow arrows in the dark and has to do 2 stages each day due to time commitments . But racing round the Camino like its assault course can’t be ideal for someone like him that really needs to slow down . However , only on the second night of meeting him , he asked Phil if he could get involved in some cross country cannabis deal to England!. Speaking in Spanish only and Phil not speaking the language, it was up to Stinke and I to translate his ideas and for Phil to fill in the rest with gestures. Thanks but no thanks haha! You get all sorts on the camino! The camino pilgrims are not the best clients to be asking for these types of business ideas! Perhaps the chocolate was a ruse. He also gave me a banana. My mum always said never accept sweets from strangers …

The journey

The journey was snowless but very pretty, hilly and through a lot of countryside and woodland paths. Medieval bridges are making an appreance. It may not be like this in high season but many paths were overgrown with wild roses and brambles that we had to fight our way though. It all added to the adventure though.

Again it was muddy and we had great fun puddle hopping . If the river got even higher I think we would have needed a boat! We passed the bridge featured in “The Way” where Martin Sheen drops his bag in and swims in to get it . Not a chance in real-life. These waters are deadly.

We also all felt solemn in a particular part of the woods. We all spoke and agreed that it felt something gloomy had happened there . It’s strange the things you think and feel on the camino when you are in nature, you mind is free and open to the energies! A little further there was a cross of Rosanna do Verona who died on the camino. When you do research you find out many people have died on it and are all remembered on the way. They died doing something they loved . Perhaps that energy never goes away. RIP fellow pilgrims.

A man was standing in an underpass selling fruit out of a bag . We felt sorry for him and bought a banana for 80 cents and told him there were no other pilgrims coming so he might as well go home . He packed up his fruit bag and walked us to the next camino trail, proudly showing us a map of his region and wishing us buen camino.

Pamplona Cathedral

Just in time for mass , we popped in for a look, partially because during mass it’s free but also to experience this religious culture. We happen to like churches and absorbed the energy within. My hair stands on end each time The priests enter the room and The congregation prepare to stand . The mass was so full that people had trouble finding a pew and many resorted to standing round giant tv screens to get a better view of the front! Phil and I have trouble accepting all the pomp and ceremony related to Catholicism but it is wonderful that so many people get together in this day and age to worship and share their love and spirit.

Equipment update for camino goers ..

My Lowland poncho with it’s special rucksack space is more practical than a normal poncho because it doesn’t flap in the wind but I find I need Phil to just pull it down at the back to fit more snug. Always bring a cap or hat with a peak because poncho hats will annoy you as they always seem to block your sight slightly and make you look down ( bad for back) . Reminder…take poncho off when walking through undergrowth as they rip EASILY!

Walking sticks are great not only for hiking but for poking in the direction of growling dogs , pushing undergrowth out of the way ( which had all been wild roses and brambles so far) and using as crutches for our blister ridden Karen ( who is doing much better today)

It’s very muddy . We kept our waterproof trousers in all day today . They save a lot of laundry! Also my poundshop gel cushions for balls of feet are amazing . Bring them and put them between socks or in shoes .

We brought too many clothes!

We are sending back 1 pair of trousers each and a jumper plus gaiters. Wearing running pants/ merino leggings and waterproof trousers/ walking trousers enough . Even at 6 to 8c it’s too warm . Merino wool dries straight away and due to the temperatures we aren’t sweating so to be honest just washing the underarm of jumper and skin teashirt is enough for a few days until we make a washing load .

So another great day and another camino cat that we fell in love with!