St Jean Pied de Port to Valcarlos 15.5km

The quaint medival but desolate streets of St Jean. We felt very proud to have the road exclusively to ourselves!

St Jean is the capital of Navarre and a traditional starting point for the Frances way. Anyone thinking of coming from Bayonne as we did ( Stansted to Biarritz £9.99 each then Biarritz to bayonne by 1 euro bus) needs to know that the last train for St Jean leaves at 1830.

This is the only available route between November and March due to the danger of the high grounds of the Pyrenees. If you are caught on the Napoleon route you may be fined up to 12000 euros or even worse die of exposure as it reaches 1400m! Valcarlos, named after Charlemagne, the king and emporer in the 8th and 18th century was said to have been playing chess in this valley when he heard the horn of his nephew which signalled grave danger ( he died!)

As expected the pilgrims office at St Jean was empty except for 2 volunteers who prepared our credentials ( The card which you must hold which gets stamped throughout the Camino so you can enter hostels ) . At 2 euro each this is their only income apart from selling scallop shells . It’s amazing what contribution this office make to the camino and are there to help with everything .

Although it was almost entirely by the roadside, it was quiet and very pretty even with the bare trees. The snow topped mountain peaks are very majestic against the rolling hills which reminded us of Wales. Gradual inclines and declines meant I made good use of the hiking poles although i wouldnt say they were necessary. The red and white traditional Basque houses sit comfortably in the lush green hills and miniature farms and allotments . The locals although few and far between seem very relaxed in their environment.

We met Stinke at the office , a Finnish lady whom I met on an online forum who was as equally as crazy as us and ignored all efforts of go later in the year. We planned to brave the Pyrenees together . We chatted non stop for hours. The beauty of the canino is that it brings out the best meaningful and interesting conversation in people . You can feel like you have known someone for a long time after 1 day !

Winter caminos have their advantages. We felt like the Camino belonged to just us today . No other pilgrim about ! Our hostel was just for us and after being given a door code we entered and used Valcarlos municipal like it was our own home. A guy came round for a measly 10 euros each and told us he would cook us breakfast in morning ! Then promptly left again. Having our own kitchen meant we could make our own supper . People seem very grateful for our custom and have time to speak to us. There are no queues and no waiting . No sunburn and no overheating .

Only one faux pas today . I asked the bartender in Arneguy which country we were in ( town on border ) and he said proudly ” the Basque country of course”. The Basque area is part of both Spain and France as an autonomous region with its own language and culture! But I was happy as a glass of wine has gone down to 1 euro !

So far so good. Rain forecast for next few days so we ‘ll be testing the rain clothes . But we are feeling fit and fabulous, getting used to rucksack weight and wine is cheap ( which I have been told helps with aches and pains