Valcarlos to Roncevalles 18km

I started by remembering the warning from the pilgrims office not to divert from the road as slippery etc….. that was putting temptation in our way even though the forecast was rain all day!

The pictures don’t do the scenery justice. The air was invigorating and damp as we walked through the clouds. The off road paths were narrow and slippery but our hiking sticks saved the day and each push took weight off our bodies and into our arms . The camino provided almost at the very moment we needed a shelter to add our poncho and rest ….a disused building. This was the only shelter on the Valcarlos route 6km in so be warned !

There is a lot of road walking on this route although scenic . Although getting close to freezing temperatures, walking uphill meant we were taking layers off as sweating . This meant we couldn’t stop due to risk of sweat turning cold .

The first off road path was easy enough so we braved the next one. It couldn’t hurt could it…….?

It was a happy time at first but as we got higher the snow suddenly became thick and the land steep. We had forgotten we still had a lot of the 1057m to do and this wasnt getting easier.

It was melting slightly so every step became wet and the terrain underneath was unstable and muddy. The snow was often over boot high. Having had mild panic attacks in the wilderness before I breathed deeply and smiled although really nervous . Phil and Stinke seemed fine ! The camino wasn’t going to finish me today !

Finally making it to the road and summit we reached the roadsign and i promptly fell into the snow which was thigh high ! Consequently I was dragged out and taught by Stinke to kneel out of the snow .

Equipment and health update

Nearly everything is doing well . The Merryl boots were just starting to get damp but had been through deep slushy snow for 2 hours. The Lowland poncho and my rain trousers seem effective but my Mountain Warehouse extreme coat was damp inside after a couple of hours. The poles are an absolute must !

No blisters and no aches. Phil and I are feeling wonderful and free spirited !

We all went into the restaurant and had a 10 euro pilgrim meal . Pasta dish, chicken and potato dish, a yoghurt and half bottle of wine. We all took over the only working radiator . Radiators are in demand here. I don’t know how these places cope with more pilgrims on a rainy day. We bring a plastic door hook and washing line with us.

Stinke wasn’t sure about the head on her delicious trout ( another pilgrim option )!

Roncesvalles and albergue

Because its winter we are actually staying in the Collegiate here! ( like a monastery) .

This looks down onto the newer high season albergue with 180 beds. There are just 9 of us here tonight .

We were invited by a priest to have a tour of the Collegiate . The first gothic church in Spain , it holds a very special energy and has seen a lot of history and battles unfold around here . This is also the first crypt we have been to which isn’t for tombs but for structural purposes . We also went to mass because it seemed a pilgrim like thing to do and although we aren’t Catholic, we are religious. The priests also promised us a blessing and I thought we could do with as many blessings as possible on this journey!

More pilgrims arrive

Today there are 3 Koreans ( 1 with a hairdryer which we could use to dry clothes) , a crazy, stressed Spanish guy from Valencia who needs to do the Camino before he has any more fights with Italians , his pilgrim partner who doesn’t speak at all and a sweet , tiny but very naive 21 year old from Ukraine who we have spent most of the night parenting because she came with over 14kg and can barely carry it, had soaking wet trainers ( yes trainers !) No hiking gear and terrible blisters after 28km from St Jean. Even the priest has told her to rest for a day but she won’t. We’ve contributed first aid items, Phil has been doing his fatherly bit, I’ve donated pop socks ( extra layer on feet to prevent friction) and given advice and we are going as a canino family tomorrow and see what arises.

Free washing machine and tumble dryer!!!!! The dorm looks like a Chinese laundry. Something we will have to get used to……..